A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great. Hosted by Joshua Horsley.
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Testpiece Podcasts
Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. 5M+ downloads. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine
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#168 Dan Varian — The Different Physical Archetypes Of Pros, High Knuckle Crimping, Committing To Chisel Or 3-Finger Drag, and How True Progression Happens
2:30:46
2:30:46
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2:30:46Dan Varian is a living legend in the bouldering scene. He's one of the founders of the iconic company Beastmaker and he's a prolific developer with who has FA'd 100's of boulders in the grade 8 (V11 and up). On top of that, Dan is one of the most thoughtful and experienced climber in the world on what it takes to climb at a high level, especially w…
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EP 279: Andy Raether — Bringing Routes to Life, How to Be Stronger at 40 than 20, & the Woods Board
3:11:31
3:11:31
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3:11:31Andy Raether is a prolific sport climber, boulderer, and developer based in Las Vegas, NV. He also owns a climbing hold company and created the Woods Board. We talked about his intro to climbing and making holds, bringing routes and crags to life, sending his hardest boulder (Midlife Crisis V14) at 40 years old, how he trains on The Woods Board, ho…
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EP 278: Jeremy Kiner (Patron Spotlight) — The GRINDS Program, Embracing Double Rest Days, & Regenerative Farming
2:23:38
2:23:38
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2:23:38Jeremy Kiner is a Kentucky-based boulderer and sport climber. We talked about his journey to V10 and 5.13b, how he uses a board circuit as a training benchmark, his experience with the GRINDS finger training program, embracing double rest days, his diet and dealing with autoimmune issues, what he learned from working on two different regenerative f…
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#167 ‘Board Talk’ — A Recurring Board Focused Podcast With Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley
2:12:53
2:12:53
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2:12:53Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Board Talk’ podcast! Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley. Some topics covered in th…
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EP 277: Michelle LeBlanc — Project Pride 2025, the Political Pendulum Swing, and Meeting in the Middle
1:15:08
1:15:08
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1:15:08Michelle LeBlanc returns to the podcast to talk about her annual Project Pride event in Squamish, B.C. (August 29-30, 2025). She shared her personal story and why she started Project Pride, and we talked about cultural and political pendulum swings, sensationalism in the media, and what to expect if you attend her upcoming event. You can buy ticket…
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#166 Wheel Rock — Noah Does Two V17’s, Benn Explains The V17 Grade, Turning Pro, and Execution At The Highest Level
1:50:58
1:50:58
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1:50:58Noah Wheeler and Benn Wheeler are back on the pod! Tons of fun and insight from these two on what it takes to do the hardest boulders in the world. Also we get into Board Lord’s Episode #7 where Noah competed with Hamish McArthur and SeanRHM. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet…
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EP 276: Alex Bridgewater — Sports Psychology Tools to Elevate Your Climbing Performance
2:47:55
2:47:55
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2:47:55Alex Bridgewater (M.S. in Sports Psychology) returns to the podcast to discuss tools that can help elevate your climbing performance. We talked about finding your values, the dark side of expectations, a framework for working toward goals, how to develop confidence, building awareness, whether climbing is separate from life, the cost of masochism, …
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Something Different | Jake Muise (CEO & Founder of Maui Nui Venison) — Sustainable Food for Peak Performance
1:14:24
1:14:24
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1:14:24What if you could eat the healthiest meat on the planet while helping the environment? Jake Muise is the CEO and founder of Maui Nui Venison, and joins me to talk about sustainable food and the future of nutrient density. We talked about the overpopulation of Axis deer in Hawaii, the cyclical die-off they experience without predation, solving compl…
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#165 ‘Good Temps’ 2 — Brooke Does Excalibur [15c], Ondra Flashes E11, Mt. Doom’s [V17] Aesthetic’s Matter, Actual Progression Of The Sport, and ‘First Dab Ascent’
2:04:38
2:04:38
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2:04:38Good Temps is back! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Today’s episode covers: Brooke Rabatou’s FFA of Excalibur (15c) Adam Ondra flashing Lexicon (E11) Mount Doom (V17) and the importance…
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EP 275: Yuji Hirayama — Japanese Focus, Improving Every Day, and the Secret to Staying Young
1:57:09
1:57:09
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1:57:09Yuji Hirayama is a Japanese professional climber and a living legend. We talked about visualizing his onsight attempt on The Salathe, channeling support into power, Daniel Woods, Mount Kinabalu, Japanese vs. Western culture, quitting school to climb, owning climbing gyms, how to stay 9a fit in your 50s, the secret to staying young, and much more. R…
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#164 Obe Carrion — “We Are Bouldering”, What Winning Comps Used To Represent, 'Rock Star' Parties, and Designing Dope Gear
1:51:47
1:51:47
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1:51:47Obe Carrion is an absolute legend and one of the most iconic stars that rose during the early years of American bouldering. Obe has climbed, competed, and worked in every role climbing has to offer. And he always does it with the best of the best. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s motto is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovati…
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#163 Michael Rosato — Board Lords, Board Culture, Standardized Vs Spray, The Future Of Boards, and Board Grading
2:13:38
2:13:38
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2:13:38Michael Rosato is the Director Of Marketing at Tension Climbing, and is also the host of the amazing ‘Board Lord’ series on their YouTube Channel. Michael is also a board lord himself, with sends up to V13 on the TB2. Enjoy this deep dive into board culture, the different kinds of boards, and the future of boards. This episode is supported by ORGAN…
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Something Different | Eric Edmeades — Unlocking Resilience Through Ancestral Living
2:22:23
2:22:23
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2:22:23Eric Edmeades is often referred to as the “Indiana Jones” of the professional speaking world. He has been traveling to Africa to visit the Hadza, one of the last remaining hunter-gatherer groups, since 2007. We talked about rites of passage, how ancestral living solved his health issues, lessons from his time with the Hadza, how to overcome evoluti…
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#162 Jonathan Siegrist — What It Takes To Send At Your Limit, Different Climbing Cultures Around The World, and Having Longevity As a Professional In Climbing
2:10:23
2:10:23
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2:10:23Jonathan Siegrist, aka J-Star, is one of the top sport climbers in the world, and he has been for at least a decade(s?). He recently sent another 9b in Italy, called Erebor. This wasn’t his in his typical style and he shares how he trained for months before the trip specifically for this line. Jonathan is one of the most experienced and knowledgeab…
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EP 274: Seneida Biendarra — Onsighting Without Sight, Designing Better Gear, and Wielding the Empathy Gun
2:31:05
2:31:05
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2:31:05Seneida Biendarra is the 2023 US National Champion in the women’s B2 (severely blind) category. We talked about losing her vision as a teenager, her current visual experience, creating mental maps of the world, finding freedom in risk, designing outdoor gear, the world of paraclimbing and the adaptive community, sight guiding, the empathy gun, embr…
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#161 ‘Good Temps’ — A New Recurring Group Podcast with Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley
1:51:41
1:51:41
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1:51:41Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Good Temps’ podcast! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. SHOW NOTES: Carlo’s Instagram Will’s Instagram Austin’s Instagram Josh’s Instagram The Dark Sid…
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EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades
2:03:10
2:03:10
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2:03:10Brendan Baars is a boulderer from Grand Rapids, MI, who has spent the past seven years developing a new bouldering area called The Nooks in Ontario, Canada. We talked about what a day of developing looks like, his go-to gear, how his big toe saved his life, the untapped potential in Canada, the reward of establishing and sharing new climbs, undone …
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#160 Hamish McArthur — Going ‘Invisible Man’, Sending Megatron And NOMTW, and What Achieving Your Potential Actually Means
1:44:40
1:44:40
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1:44:40Hamish McArthur has been making huge headlines in the climbing world lately with his send of the highly sought after second ascent of Megatron [V17]. He quickly followed that up with another V17 second ascent of No One Mourns The Wicked, on his first session! Yes, that’s right, Hamish sent a V17 in a few hours. Hamish is an incredible person throug…
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EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)
1:33:28
1:33:28
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1:33:28Steven Bergey started climbing at 31 and climbed his first V11 outside within four years. We talked about his projecting approach, the “outdoor gear”, suspending your disbelief until the magic happens, his diet and sleep routines, tips for climbing at night, the pivotal moments that change our lives forever, and more. The GRINDS Program 👉 thenugget…
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Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love
3:13:26
3:13:26
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3:13:26Justin Nault is a nutritional therapist who has helped thousands of clients escape our broken healthcare system and reclaim their health. We talked about his previous life as a professional musician and his own health journey, as well as the origins of allopathic medicine, seed oils and the hydroelectric dam analogy, what’s wrong with rodent studie…
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#159 Dave MacLeod [Part 2] — Be The Lightest Possible FOREVER, How To Peak For a Specific Moment, and Why Cutting Calories Is The Last Resort
1:17:03
1:17:03
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1:17:03You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod (again!). This episode was ‘snipped’ from the original, #158, and focuses on a nuanced discussion of nutrition. It felt very different from the other topics so we made it a standalone. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW NOTES: Po…
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#158 Dave MacLeod — You Can’t Avoid Risk, The Right Definition Of Bold Climbing, Low Confidence Is Good, and Why Being Great Means Being Different
1:56:10
1:56:10
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1:56:10You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod. This episode focuses on boldness and risk in climbing, as well as some of the key theme’s in his latest book, Moving The Needle. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY ORGANIC CLIMBING! Simply put, Organic makes the best and highest quality crashpads. SHOW NOTES: Dave MacLeod’s Instagram Dave MacLeod’s YouTube Chann…
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EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving
2:08:26
2:08:26
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2:08:26Facundo Langbehn is a Chilean-American boulderer and sport climber. We talked about sending his dream project The Nest V15, moving to Seattle, the WHY behind hard climbing, becoming the best version of yourself, his ideal training week, recovery tips, cardio, his optimistic view of climbing media, his goal to be intentional in all things, projectin…
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Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More
38:54
38:54
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38:54Old friends and climbing partners Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt join me for a nice, long listener Q&A and chat. This one was a blast. You can listen to the full thing by becoming a paid subscriber on Apple Podcasts or Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingBy Randy Leavitt, Tony Yaniro
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#157 Josh Lowell — World's Best Climbing Films, Reel Rock 19, What Made Sharma Different, Climbing Is ‘Badass’, and How To Make Something Great
2:23:37
2:23:37
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2:23:37Josh Lowell is THE guy behind the camera and computer who has made all of your favorite climbing videos over the past 25+ years. He is one of the founders of Big UP Productions, Reel Rock, and was the director of The Dawn Wall. The guy even has 2 Emmy’s under his belt! Josh shares all of his amazing stories from starting out as an OG dirtbag, picki…
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#156 Tim, My Dude — When Olympians Go Rock Climbing, The Best Red Rocks Season Ever, Are Soft Shoes Better Than Stiff Ones, and How To Have A Successful Trip
2:10:10
2:10:10
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2:10:10Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode. Tim and Josh talk about the latest big news stories in climbing and then get into their latest climbing experience. For Tim that means sending Trieste, an iconic Red Rocks V14, while being a ‘weekend warrior’. For Josh that means his recent big trip to the historic bouldering …
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EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road
1:21:07
1:21:07
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1:21:07Bob Wells (CheapRVLiving) is the ultimate vanlife guru. Bob has been living in vehicles full-time since 2008 and has helped thousands of others escape the 9-5 grind through his YouTube Channel and website. We talked about his life before the road, the vehicles he’s lived in, the best budget options he’s found, essentials for $100 or less, heating s…
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#155 [BONUS] Kevin Thibault — All About Karma, The State Of Development In Font, and 9A Slabs By Kids?!
47:02
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47:02This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #154 was finished. Kevin Thibault and Josh go deep on the legendary ‘Karma’, the current development happening in Font, skin management, and the issues of weight vs performance. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY T…
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#154 Kevin Thibault — A Lifetime In Fontainebleau, Circuits / Pof / Chipping / Nazi’s, Good vs Great Climbers In Font, and Does Climbing Need Weightclasses?
2:03:51
2:03:51
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2:03:51Kevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now! It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brushed the legendary ‘Karma’ which was sent by Fred Nicole and became one of the most famous boulder problems in the world. Hear…
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EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)
2:08:07
2:08:07
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2:08:07Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project, why we haven’t seen V15+ on the boards, projecting tactics, how changing his diet allowed him to jump up two grades, his home made pre-workout, TB2 …
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EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life
2:39:35
2:39:35
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2:39:35Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope can be negative, finding true acceptance, meditation, Alexander Technique and Feldenkrais Method, finding happiness within, why love is the key to li…
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#153 Tyler Thompson — This Is The Most Fun You Can Have Climbing, Why 14a In America Is Like 9a In Europe, and How Sport Climbing Rewards Time On Rock More Than Bouldering
1:37:02
1:37:02
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1:37:02Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends. Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn’t grown as quickly as bouldering. And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no s…
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EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science
1:23:14
1:23:14
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1:23:14Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study, exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finge…
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#152 Ned Feehally — Training For Micro Edges, Being A ‘Good’ Climber Vs Doing A Big Number, 9A Paddle Dyno’s, and A Standardized Beastmaker Board?!
1:31:04
1:31:04
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1:31:04Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He’s one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he’s flashed up to V14. How’s that for an intro?! Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he’s been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Min…
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EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)
29:23
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29:23Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climbing standard went from 5.11+ to 5.12+. In this Patron Spotlight, Connor shares exactly what he did during the 100-day experiment, what he learned, wha…
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#151 Shauna Coxsey — The One Thing You Can’t Train, Olympics Are Harder Than Parenting, and The Difference Between Motivation and Commitment
1:44:29
1:44:29
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1:44:29Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she’s a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14’s this past year. Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows e…
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#150 [BONUS] Emil Abrahamsson — Long Term YouTube Goals, Recommendations To The Pro’s, Will Ondra Flash V15?, and The # Of V17’s In The World
18:02
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18:02This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17’s in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 …
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EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More
2:18:38
2:18:38
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2:18:38Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her 40:30:30 approach to nutrition, how to eat on a climbing day, ingredients to avoid, go-to carb sources, eating healthy on a budget, her non-profit Sac…
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#149 Emil Abrahamsson — Avoiding Audience Capture, Winning The Arnold Classic, Why He’s A “Lunatic”, and Gaining The Right Kind Of Weight
1:35:23
1:35:23
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1:35:23Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel. Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times! Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15. Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he’s just a ‘Yo…
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#148 [BONUS] Kenny Suh — MORE Shocking Industry Tell All, How Most Shoe Companies Came To Exist, and $300 Climbing Shoes?!
48:10
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48:10This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny, #147. Please listen to that episode first for context! Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrall…
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#147 Kenny Suh — Shocking Industry Tell All (The NDA’s Have EXPIRED), Who Actually Makes Your Shoes?, CEO Of Mad Rock, “Finger Condoms”, and Shoes In 2030 Will Be Made Like This
1:41:49
1:41:49
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1:41:49Kenny Suh is the CEO of Mad Rock. Kenny tells us all of the behind the scenes of how climbing shoes are made, WHO actually makes them, the impossible tradeoffs in rubber, how shoes will be made in the future, and some of the innovations of the past and the potential ones in the future. Really fun one that exposes the behind the scenes of shoe makin…
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EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama
1:55:58
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1:55:58Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary ho…
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#146 Chris Weidner — First 14c At 50, The Invention Of Kneepads, Member #112 At The 1st US Gym, and How Ice Climbing Helped Chris Send 14c
1:54:25
1:54:25
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1:54:25Chris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA’ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to summiting mountains in Alaska and Argentina. All of this started when he became member #112 at the first climbing gym in the US…
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EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World
1:51:36
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1:51:36Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project, how he trains for long boulders vs routes, the Olympics, The Dawn Wall, climbing ethics, the monster within, why he thinks he can push his level for …
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#145 [BONUS] Chris Schulte — Throw It All Away, Fontainebleau Recommendations, and Earning ‘Those Moments’
14:44
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14:44This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte, right after Episode #144 was finished. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #144 for context! SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s Instagram Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page Chris Schulte’s Testpiece Episode #144 Support the show Sup…
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EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America
2:40:47
2:40:47
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2:40:47Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicity in life, becoming a bouldering coach, the balance of strength and technique, his training routine, training with intention, mindset and motivation, …
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#144 Chris Schulte — Chasing Adventure And History, The Origins Of ‘Compression’ Climbing, Bouldering In The 1800’s, and Why “Leave No Trace” Doesn’t Scale
2:03:56
2:03:56
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2:03:56Chris Schulte has been there and FA’d that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven’t met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path! In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and history about climbing that no matter who you are you’ll enjoy some new stories that you haven’t heard before. SHOW NOTES: Chr…
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EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path
2:00:13
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2:00:13Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity, Chris’ latest deep water solo ‘Vision Quest’ 9a, thoughts for future climbers, the key to good climbing technique, following your own path, and much…
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#143 Simon Lorenzi — The Surprising Reason V18 Is So Difficult, Benchmark V16 And V17 Boulders, 9c Vs 9A, ‘Perfect’ Isn’t Perfect, and Why Climbing Is The Best Sport Ever
1:45:03
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1:45:03Simon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt! That’s because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17’s there. This was an …
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#142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers
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1:47:51Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance. This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Ro…
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