Finger Tendons with Tyler Nelson

Jacked Athlete Podcast

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8d ago 51:03

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00:00 Introduction to Finger Tendons and Climbing Injuries 03:13 Understanding Finger Anatomy and Function 06:02 Common Finger Injuries in Climbers 08:53 Pathophysiology of Tenosynovitis 12:06 Rehabilitation Strategies for Finger Injuries 15:04 Comparing Tenosynovitis and Pulley Injuries 17:56 Managing Climbing Volume and Injury Prevention 25:38 Understanding Power Loss in Climbing 29:27 Tendon Adaptation Through Lifelong Loading 33:22 Rehabilitation Challenges for Climbers 35:05 The Role of Strength Training in Climbing 37:10 Tendon Adaptation Mechanisms 38:56 Controversies in Climbing Training Methods 41:07 Ultrasound in Diagnosing Climbing Injuries 42:22 Using Strain Gauges for Performance Measurement 43:53 Understanding Pulley Ruptures 45:36 Rehabilitation Techniques for Finger Tendons 47:14 Thumb Tendon Issues in Climbers 49:09 Future Directions in Climbing Research 50:07 Finding Professional Help in Climbing Rehabilitation

Takeaways

Tyler Nelson has a doctorate in chiropractic and a master's in tendon research.
Rock climbers often experience finger injuries due to overtraining.
Finger tendons are unique in their anatomy and function compared to other tendons.
Tenosynovitis is a common injury among climbers, often due to too much stress too soon.
Rehabilitation for finger injuries should focus on gradual load increase and proper technique.
The A2 pulley is crucial for finger movement and is often injured in climbers.
Climbers need to be aware of the specific loads their fingers endure during training.
Managing climbing volume is essential to prevent injuries in climbers.
The tendon sheath plays a vital role in the health of finger tendons.
Understanding the mechanics of finger tendons can aid in better training and injury prevention. Power loss is a key metric in understanding climbing performance.
Beginners should focus on skill development rather than overloading their fingers.
Body weight significantly affects the load on tendons during climbing.
Lifelong loading is crucial for tendon adaptations in climbers.
Climbers often underload their tendons during rehabilitation, leading to prolonged recovery.
Strength training is essential for injury prevention and performance enhancement in climbing.
Tendon adaptations require significant muscle load and proper joint positioning.
Controversial training methods are gaining popularity, but their efficacy is debated.
Ultrasound is the gold standard for diagnosing climbing injuries and assessing tendon health.
There is a growing interest in climbing research, leading to better understanding and treatment of climbing-related injuries.

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Notes: https://jackedathlete.com/podcast-142-finger-tendons-with-tyler-nelson/

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