Ep 46: Miguel Zevallos - FIX Your Comp Climbing INJURIES

That's Not Real Climbing

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18d ago 1:19:20

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Miguel is a climbing physical therapist who works closely with the Method youth climbing team in the US and recently worked his first youth nationals! In this episode, we’ll learn about the danger of growth plate injuries in youth climbing athletes, we’ll get a glimpse into youth ISO, we’ll rank 3 of the most dangerous comp moves we’ve seen so far, and we’ll hear about his own journey trying to make the Peruvian national team!

Guest links:

Miguel’s Instagram

Miguel’s website

Reference links:

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Timestamps of discussion topics

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:03 - Getting into PT and climbing

4:09 - OTs vs PTs and insurance battles

7:26 - Working with youth comp climbers

9:44 - What ISO is like at youth nationals

14:38 - Massage guns? And my bro-science musings

16:43 - Injuries in kids vs adults

19:37 - The big one: growth plate injuries in kids

25:01 - When to rest vs train through an injury

27:34 - General recommendations for climbing injuries

32:45 - S+C to prevent ankle, shoulder injuries

35:26 - Ranking 3 dangerous comp moves

42:27 - When NOT to tape

47:28 - What injuries do vs don't require time off the wall

52:53 - Chronic injuries? Maybe you're climbing wrong...

59:33 - Training for Peruvian nationals

1:06:37 - DISCORD Q: What advice would you give to PT students looking to work with climbers?

1:08:46 - DISCORD Q: What are the pillars of a strong climbing warmup?

1:12:27 - DISCORD Q: top 2 exercises for injury prevention

1:17:29 - Words of wisdom and where to find Miguel

Chapters

1. Intro (00:00:00)

2. Mad Rock Shoutout!! (00:01:18)

3. Getting into PT and climbing (00:02:03)

4. OTs vs PTs and insurance battles (00:04:09)

5. Working with youth comp climbers (00:07:26)

6. What ISO is like at youth nationals (00:09:44)

7. Massage guns? And my bro-science musings (00:14:38)

8. Injuries in kids vs adults (00:16:43)

9. The big one: growth plate injuries in kids (00:19:37)

10. When to rest vs train through an injury (00:25:01)

11. General recommendations for climbing injuries (00:27:34)

12. S+C to prevent ankle, shoulder injuries (00:32:45)

13. Ranking 3 dangerous comp moves (00:35:26)

14. When NOT to tape (00:42:27)

15. What injuries do vs don't require time off the wall (00:47:28)

16. Chronic injuries? Maybe you're climbing wrong... (00:52:53)

17. Training for Peruvian nationals (00:59:33)

18. DISCORD Q: What advice would you give to PT students looking to work with climbers? (01:06:37)

19. DISCORD Q: What are the pillars of a strong climbing warmup? (01:08:46)

20. DISCORD Q: top 2 exercises for injury prevention (01:12:27)

21. Words of wisdom and where to find Miguel (01:17:29)

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