Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.
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Hairspring Podcasts
This is the main feed for all of Hodinkee's podcasts, from "Hodinkee Radio" to new and special presentations subscribe here for discussions about the latest watch releases, interviews with notable collectors, and a whole lot more.
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Episode 83: The Balance Cocks of 2025
1:23:26
1:23:26
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1:23:26Yes, it’s year end. And the only awards show that anyone cares about is back in action. It’s the Balance Cocks second annual outing this week; this show will cover the most beautiful and ugliest watches of the year, the greatest new calibre, the strongest value, the watch which will lose you the most money after buying it, and far more. Then we hav…
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The Business of Watches [009] Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta Drives Double-Digit Sales Increase For Brand's 150th Anniversary Year
29:17
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29:17On this week's episode of The Business of Watches, we sit down with Ilaria Resta, the Chief Executive Officer of Audemars Piguet. Among the strategically important years in the brand's 150-year history, 2025 may rank among the most significant. Not only did it mark a century-and-a-half anniversary, it demanded a strong and determined leader to navi…
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The Business of Watches [008] Hind Seddiqi: The Driving Force Behind Dubai Watch Week
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33:05On this week's episode of The Business of Watches, a frank discussion with one of the most powerful women in the world of horology. Hind Seddiqi is the Chief Executive Officer of Dubai Watch Week, an event that's grown and matured to become one of the few truly top-tier events on the watch sector calendar. As CEO of the biennial gathering, Seddiqi …
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Erik & Max are back to answer your wide-ranging questions in the seventh installment of what is becoming a cornerstone of the podcast. Questions range from a new ‘holy trinity’ we’d select, what neo-vintage references collectors should be paying attention to yet aren’t, Langes on a budget, best Blümlein IWCs, our favored Cartier shapes, and far mor…
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Episode 81: The Patek Philippe ‘Pure’ Perpetual Calendar (Beginnings until 3940)
1:00:44
1:00:44
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1:00:44A monumental occasion, this episode covers a complete chronology of the Patek Philippe ‘pure’ perpetual calendar. Arguably, the QP was the complication that built the Patek Philippe name more than any other through the mid-century. Yet, the main bloodline of QP has many nuances that aren’t often covered. This episode highlights all the main referen…
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The Business of Watches [007] James Lamdin Of Analog Shift On The Vintage And Pre-Owned Market And Why All Authenticity Guarantees Aren't The Same
50:26
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50:26James Lamdin is a sage voice of reason and experience in the vintage watch market. He's earned those titles through his years in the business. A co-founder of the OG collector meetup RedBar Group, Lamdin went on to found Analog Shift, the vintage and pre-owned dealer acquired by Watches of Switzerland (also the parent company of Hodinkee) in 2020. …
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Master comedian and legendary podcaster Tom Segura joins Erik & Max for a hilarious conversation on his love of watches and collecting. Tom’s enthusiasm ranges from FP Journe to 6263 Daytona, with more than his fair share of AD experiences on tour. Today we ask who was the most obnoxious sales staff he’s encountered yet, where his love of Lange cam…
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The Business of Watches [006] Audience Q&A Special With Hodinkee's Editor-In-Chief James Stacey
42:04
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42:04On this week's episode of The Business of Watches, we're doing something a little different. We're taking your questions, and we've got a special guest as Hodinkee Editor-In-Chief, James Stacey, joins the podcast to help answer your queries on the business side of the dial. We hit a lot of topics, from the best perpetual calendars under $20,000, to…
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Episode 79: 5 Watches from the Last 5 Years That Will Age Like Wine & 5 Watches from the Last 5 Years That Will Age Like Milk
1:05:56
1:05:56
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1:05:56This is a simple concept, but what’s recent that holds a fair shot of standing the test of time? And what are the absolute dogs that should be avoided? Both categories are addressed no holds barred, a fairly random smattering of watches that may be future classics, and just as many that, well, we’d best avoid. And yes, we’re probably wrong. Links M…
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The Business of Watches [005] Frederique Constant CEO Niels Eggerding On Why He's Fighting To Keep FC's Perpetual Calendar Under $10,000
45:02
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45:02On this episode of The Business of Watches Podcast we drop in on Niels Eggerding, the CEO of Frederique Constant (and sister marque Alpina), at the brand's headquarters in Plan-les-Ouates, Switzerland near Geneva. Eggerding has been in the corner office since 2018 and has steered FC through a series of challenges and triumphs during his time leadin…
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Episode 78: The Second-Greatest Rolexes to Ever Auction
1:04:27
1:04:27
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1:04:27We all know Paul Newman’s Paul Newman, but what was the second most valuable watch at that auction? This week, Erik & Max ask that question, as well as investigating some of the other incredible Rolexes which have hammered that aren’t super-famous, but are super-intriguing. From nicknames like ‘The Sock’ to a Sub-Day-Date hybrid or false McQueen pr…
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The Business of Watches [004] Tag Heuer CEO Antoine Pin On Carbon Hairspring Setbacks, Pricing, Tariffs, And Formula One
27:16
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27:16On this week's The Business Of Watches podcast, we catch up with Antoine Pin, the Chief Executive Officer of Tag Heuer. He's having quite a year. The brand is in the first season of a new decade-long deal to be the official timekeeping sponsor of Formula 1. It's a high-profile, multi-brand agreement that, if executed correctly, could launch Tag Heu…
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Episode 77: An FP Journey (Beginnings Until Gold Movements, The Early Watches)
1:20:04
1:20:04
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1:20:04This is the story of how an unlikely ruffian from Marseille came to be regarded as the genius watchmaker of a generation. This week, Erik & Max tell the story of François-Paul Journe from expulsion to working with Asprey and sketching on napkins. While the story dominates two-thirds of the episode, the final third is dedicated to the watches themse…
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The Business of Watches [003] Georges Kern: The Breitling CEO Talks Growth Despite Challenges Facing The Watch Industry
37:33
37:33
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37:33By HODINKEE
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Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from 2 watch modern Rolex collection picks, vintage value under 20K, roasting the 5159, figuring out the best QPs ever, the best watches ever sold that you never saw, how to manage databases, and valuing extremely rare watches. Plus and Only Wrist for a SEA…
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Episode 75: Collaborations Gone Wrong
1:07:51
1:07:51
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1:07:51This week, Erik X Max talk the worst collaborations in watches. While a unique idea in 2010, collaborations seem more common than a single brand’s own work these days. While some are brilliant, this episode is a discourse in where it can go wrong and where it’s heading. There are some you might not expect in here, as well as the obvious, all for th…
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The Business of Watches [002] Sylvain Berneron On His Company’s Work Philosophy, Business Structure, And Future Watches
2:04:47
2:04:47
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2:04:47Sylvain Berneron is in high demand, and so are his watch designs. Just last week, a 34-millimeter version of his debut time-only watch, the Berneron Mirage, came up for public auction for the first time, and bidding soared beyond the CHF80,000 high estimate to fetch a staggering CHF241,300, including fees. Having previously worked in the automotive…
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Accomplished singer, songwriter, and producer James Blake joins the podcast for truly legendary discussion of watches, music, their intersection, and a veritable feast of unrelated topics. Conversation includes the role of atrophy in attraction to vintage, what watches he’d gift various well-known musicians, how ‘perfect’ finishing may be too perfe…
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Episode 73: The Vintage Rolex Collector’s Glossary (WTF Is a Musketeer)
1:12:46
1:12:46
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1:12:46Have you ever what a Musketeer Dial is? Does Millerighe sound more like a sneeze than a pusher to you? What does PPDRSD stand for, are cherry Daytonas a real thing, and is PCG the same as Cornino? This and all the other terms you see frequently in vintage sports Rolex described as quickly as possible in this week’s episode. It’s that simple. Links …
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The Business of Watches [001] Rolex, The Making of a Status Symbol With Author Pierre-Yves Donzé
1:03:44
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1:03:44Welcome to the first episode of a brand new podcast for Hodinkee. It's called The Business of Watches, and it's hosted by me, Andy Hoffman. Each episode, delivered once every two weeks, will feature conversations with authors, CEOs, industry insiders, and fellow journalists as we uncover the business behind your favorite watches and watch brands. W…
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This week is more automotive than most, as Erik & Max are joined by the esteemed automotive journalist Henry Catchpole. Henry is an immensely talented story-teller and also happens to adore watches. This episode spans Henry’s path as an enthusiast, a family Vacheron, Enicar, The Bugatti Tourbillon, if cars are having their own Quartz Crisis now, th…
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Episode 71: Forgotten Watches of the 2000s
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1:00:59What’s after neo-vintage yet before contemporary watches? Quite a lot as it turns out. Erik & Max set themselves the challenge of uncovering some of the great references that might go over looked, as they predate watch media as we know it. And it’s not all high-flying independents. Picks range from multiple examples under 10K (some under 5K, even) …
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Episode 70: Building Independent vs Big Brand Collections (2 Watches for 200K)
1:00:19
1:00:19
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1:00:19Erik & Max build two-watch collections twice with a generous budget, once with independents and once with large brands. This, in order to help crystalize the strengths and weaknesses of each type of watch. Conversation ranges from the Dubail to the Vingt-8 with everything in-between. Plus, an Only Wrist for a gentleman running construction in Austi…
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Episode 69: Royal Oak, The Most Influential AP (The Story So Far)
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1:04:28
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1:04:28Some will tell you that Audemars Piguet have become the Royal Oak company. But why is this sole model so damn successful? How did one watch come to invent and subsequently take over a market segment? What are the models worth paying attention to and how are collections structured? This is the story of the Royal Oak, from two years before the 5402’s…
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Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from guilty pleasures to asking if the independent space is too crowded. Plus, what is the best QP ever made? Why isn’t shaped Patek popular? What’s the next hot indie? This and much more, plus a great question from Max’s mom. Links Mentioned: Lange Error: …
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Episode 67: Tony Traina Vents & Builds Lifelong 20K + 200K Two-Watch Collections
1:27:47
1:27:47
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1:27:47The inimitable mastermind behind Unpolished returns to join Erik & Max; this episode is a wide-ranging discussion with Mr. Tony Traina himself. It covers three large segments of discussion. First, what’s been grinding Tony’s gears lately (and some of Erik’s as well). Then a collection-building exercise of two lifelong two-watch collections: one col…
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Episode 66: A. Lange One (The Story of Rebirth 1994-2000)
1:18:28
1:18:28
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1:18:28This is the story of how Glashütte came to be, once again, the epicenter of German watchmaking. This week, Erik & Max do their best to debrief the 1994-2000 rise of A. Lange & Söhne, and particularly to tell the story of the ambitious, hard-working folks involved. This episode targets key moments in the manufacture's rise to success, central tenets…
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Episode 65: Crowd-Sourced Future Classics
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1:29:00
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1:29:00In this qasi-Q&A format, we asked you for recommendations on watches that might be the future of collecting. Some replies were quite out there, some were unexpected, and many were rather great. This week, we give on thoughts on what you all are marking as the future classics. Links Mentioned: Berneron: https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/a-first-lo…
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Erik & Max are going for it now: what are the worst dials made (the ones we all should’ve loved but can’t)? This is not just a roast of Jacob & Co, but rather dials and concepts that had promise, only to fail in the execution. There’s no shortage of content here this week, apologies for the long run time. Also, what might be the greatest Only Wrist…
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Episode 63: Will Anyone Ever Start to Collect These?
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1:12:45
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1:12:45While independents, Daytonas, and PCCs return to new highs, Erik & Max turn their attention to unusual corners of watches that aren’t aggressively collected today. As long as they’re rare, well studied, interesting, and beautiful, they’re in the running this week. Plus a two-in-one Only Wrist. Links Mentioned: Questionable Cloche (last image): http…
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Episode 62: Daytona, An Introduction
1:08:41
1:08:41
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1:08:41This episode covers all you need to know to begin speaking Daytona. No more needs to be said. Links Mentioned: Pre-Daytona: 3346 Zerographe: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080016/36 4113 Split: https://www.phillips.com/article/47875238/comparing-two-rolex-reference-4113-of-the-twelve-made-1 4537: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/4537-rol…
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Episode 61: Winners & Blunders (and Alternatives)
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59:50It’s not just a Watches & Wonders retrospective this week, as Erik & Max attempt to also choose a superior vintage alternative in the same vein to each new release. There are roasts, reasonable critiques, and some unexpected loves in this year’s releases. This week’s episode covers the Land-Dweller, Calatrava, Lange Repeaters, and so much. Plus, Jo…
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Watches & Wonders 2025: Daily Episodes Live From Geneva | Day 4
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25:54It's the last day of the show, and James is joined by Malaika, Mark, and Tim to discuss our general impressions of the show, Tim's experience as a first-timer, and some of the highlights we saw from a day full of meetings with Sinn, Bulgari, Laurent Ferrier, Parmigiani, and more. We hope you loved the episodes, and if you want more podcasts about t…
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Watches & Wonders 2025: Daily Episodes Live From Geneva | Day 3
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32:31For the team's third day at Watches and Wonders, James is joined by Rich, Malaika, and Tim to talk over our highlights from another full day of fun at the fair. We get into everything from the latest Panerai models and the new (and very bleu) execution of the Chanel J12 to some deeper picks from Cartier and James' experience with a fun and colorful…
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Chances are, you won’t agree with the ideas we’re discussing this week. And that’s the whole point. This week, Erik & Max ask, ‘What do you believe that almost no on else in watches seems to?” Discussion leads to the Fast & Furious, Triple Calendars, Dufour, Lange QPs, and Instagram. Plus, what should a very successful furniture maker wear? Links M…
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Watches & Wonders 2025: Daily Episodes Live From Geneva | Day 2
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39:25We're back with Day 2 at Watches and Wonders as Ben, James, TanTan, and Mark recap another great day at the show and feature a fascinating conversation with Matthieu Humair, the CEO of Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation. From the new Tag Heuer Formula 1 and the most complex wristwatch ever made to our hands-on experiences at Tudor and Rolex, it'…
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Watches & Wonders 2025: Daily Episodes Live From Geneva | Day 1
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30:10Welcome to the first episode of Hodinkee Radio at Watches and Wonders 2025. We will be recording and publishing daily podcast episodes to recap Watches & Wonders. Stay tuned for our takes on all the latest releases, takeaways from the show, and the general shenanigans that tend only to be captured on mic after a long day of seeing lots of watches a…
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There are small mistakes and then there is today’s topic: true faux pas. From interactions with other collectors to the way manufactures design their watches, this week is all about those social blunders. Obviously, this episode is mostly Erik & Max moaning and groaning, but there are one or two deeper points worth contemplating. In addition, the s…
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This week is all about the Rolex that moved the brand from tool watches to luxury: the Day-Date. We cover the beginnings, chronology, famous wearers, advertising, interesting dials, and everything down to the Oysterquartz Perpetual Calendar (you read that right). It’s a more granular episode than most, but if you’ve been looking to get up to speed …
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Auctions aren’t new, not even close. And, if we’re honest, we could’ve played history better. Today, Erik & Max have given themselves a second chance to do so, going back through auctions of the last five years and picking out favorites in the 0-10K, 10-100K, and 100K+ hammer price brackets, respectively. There were so many great buys we all missed…
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Yes, it’s Q&A time again. You asked (in a big way!), we answer. All the insane questions you asked us and more. This round includes crucial questions such as TR900 vs 3970, the greatest 1016 variant, our favored vintage and modern Patek Philippes of all time, independent divers (where’d they go?), views on Glashütte Original. Links Mentioned: Glash…
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Episode 55: Great Unknown Modern Watchmakers & Their Watches
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1:07:43In Part 2 of the series, Erik & Max turn their eye to the lesser discussed watchmakers alive and operating today. It’s not just independents, but it’s mostly independents. Perhaps not those you may have guessed, however. From Hazemann & Monnin to AdC, Kuan Rao, and Jean-Batiste Voit, it’s all here. Plus, what should a nightclub owner retiring to th…
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Episode 54: Great Unknown Vintage Watch Brands
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57:25Wristwatches have been around awhile. And, in that time, a great many names haves have risen and then fallen. This week, Erik & Max discuss some of the great now-defunct watchmakers from years gone by, as well as some of their better works. And we really mean unknown. From a Tiffany-Only signed retailer calendar with a Patek calibre, to L. Leroy & …
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Episode 53: Undervalued Speedmasters, Why Independent Chronographs Matter, and the Le Mans Market
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56:15It’s start, stop, reset this week, as Erik & Max explore the ins and outs chronographs. The covers the Speedmasters we should all be talking about but aren’t, the true cost and impressiveness of independent chronographs, and what’s going on with the Le Mans. Greubel Hand Made 2: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-greubel-forsey-hand-made-2 …
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Episode 52: PCC, The Greatest Bloodline in Watches
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1:15:56Buckle up, as Erik & Max cover a complete chronology of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph references this week. What separates the more desirable ones from the less but still very desirable ones? From 1518 to 5270, including 2499 vs 3970, this episode covers all points you need to start having informed conversations on the topic. Histor…
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Episode 51: Strap Etiquette and Why Roman Numerals Often Fail
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56:04Have you ever wondered if it’s appropriate to wear a dive watch on leather? This week, Erik & Max have the final answer. Plus, a Daytona on alligator? What about a VC 1921 Historiques on NATO? Contrast stitching? What faux pas exist in strap wearing if any? This, plus an analysis on Roman numerals, appropriate use, and critique of their frequent mi…
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Today marks the 50th episode of the Hairspring podcast, for which Erik & Max are extremely honored to be joined by Ben Clymer, founder of Hodinkee. In a very candid and wide-ranging chat, we cover the arc of Hodinkee so far, Ben as a collector today, and his dream unlimited-budget 3 watch collection—amongst much else. This includes thoughts on what…
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Episode 49: Enthusiast vs Collector vs Professional
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1:06:58In a bit of a first, this week is a philosophical rumination. What does it really mean to be into watches and why the hell should any of us be where we are? If you want to be a professional and make it a career, what options are available to you? And what’s the difference between a dealer and a retailer anyway? Erik & Max attempt to answer and so m…
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Today’s independents aren’t battling over complication, they’re battling to perfect simplicity. Erik & Max asked you for your most expressive formats of Time Only watchmaking. Now, it’s time to relay some of the best three-handers the world has ever seen and why. This reaches far beyond the known models to Tortoise automatons, dad watches, 530s, El…
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A Look Ahead To 2025 – Part 2 With Mark and Rich
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43:21We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by Hodinkee's YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, o…
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